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Indoor Furniture
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Outdoor Furniture
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Mission Furniture
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Mission Mirror
This Arts and Crafts-inspired looking glass also reflects your woodworking talents. Though a perfect companion to our Arts and Crafts-style dresser, plan DP-00440, this mirror also works as a standalone accessory for a bedroom or hallway. That’s why we provide mounting options for a wall or dresser. DP-00437
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2004
Page 1 of 7
Page 2 of 7
21‹"
A
1fl"
‹" chamfer
F
‹" chamfer
B 2"
31‡"
E
15Œ"
Shown from back
36‹"
6"
6"
A
F
1" fender washer
1›"
3" „" glue kerfs „" deep
G
¤ x 17› x 31fl" mirror
31‡"
#6 x fi" panhead wood screw
Picture hanger
¤ x 1fi x 4" steel bar stock for mounting to dresser
1 exploded view
C
‹" chamfer on front edges
›" rabbet ›" deep
1" counterbore ¤" deep with a Ï" pilot hole fi" deep centered inside
Braided wire (60 lb. capacity)
D
41‹"
1fl"
17fi"
„" glue kerf „" deep „" from edge
›" rabbets ›" deep 2"
B
2 stile and rail detail Shown from back
1fl" 1›" rabbet ›" deep
1›"
A
fi" to start of arch
1" ‹"
1" counterbore ¤" deep with a Ï" pilot hole fi" deep, centered inside 1" fender washer
#6 x fi" panhead wood screw TOP›"SECTION VIEW rabbets (Part removed) ›" D deep ‹" chamfer C 2¤" „" glue kerf „" deep „" from edge
G
3 section view
Shown from top
¤" mirror
1" fender washer
A
C
F „" glue kerfs
E (Part D removed)
Page 3 of 7
Make 1" stiles from 3⁄4" stock
The 1"-thick oak used for the 1 stiles (A) isn’t always easy to find, but it can be easy to make
from ‡" stock. To begin, cut three pieces 2‹×22‹"‑from ‡" quartersawn white oak. Arrange the three boards with the two best faces on the outside. Mark the inside faces to indicate the glue side, as shown in
2
Photo A.
Glue and clamp the three 3 pieces together to make a 2‹×2‹×22‹" piece, keeping the ‑
edges and ends flush. Scrape off any excess dried glue and rip the piece to 2" wide. Bandsaw the piece in half, as shown in Photo B. Then plane the glue-up to 1" thick. Cut two stiles (A) to a final length of 21‹".
4
Create the remaining parts
of the top and lower rails using a standard saw blade or dado set, as shown in Photo C. Do not move the fence yet. Along one inner edge of both stiles, cut a ›"-deep rabbet, as shown in Drawing 2, so that the rail ends will fit flush with the stiles on the back side. Cut a ›"-deep rabbet along the top edge of the lower rail (C). To cut the top rail (B) rabbet, raise the blade to 1›" and place the most attractive face against the fence. Cut the rabbet in two passes for a ›" finished depth. Mark the cut line for the top rail (B), where dimensioned on Drawings 1 and 2. Note the fi" flat spot on the bottom edge of each end of the rail, where shown on Drawing 2. As shown in Photo D, we used a fairing stick to mark the arch. Bandsaw and sand the arch to shape. Using a router table equipped with a fence, rout a ‹" chamfer along the inside edge of the front face of the lower rail (C), where shown in Drawing 2. To create recesses for the fender washers used to hold the mirror in place, use a 1" Forstner bit to
3 4 5 6
Cut the top rail (B), lower rail 7 1 (C), top (D), base (E), and two blanks for the corbels (F) to the sizes specified on the Materials
to and , and 8 2Refer cut rabbet joints on the ends List.
Drawings 1
2
bore six counterbores on the back side of the frame, as dimensioned on Drawing 2. Then drill a Ï" pilot hole fi" deep centered in each 1" counterbore. Control glue squeeze-out by cutting „"-deep glue kerfs along the edges of the corbels and rails, as shown in Drawings 1 and 2. Kerfs are placed „" in from the faces and stop about ‹" from the ends on the corbels (F).
9
Begin building the frame
Glue and clamp the stiles and rails 1 together, as shown in . Keep the ends of the stiles flush with the Photo E
backs of the rails, as shown in Drawing 3. Check for square by measuring diagonally for equal distances. Later, sand the frame smooth. Rout a ‹" chamfer on the ends and the front edge of the top and base (D, E). We used a fence on the router table plus a miter gauge with an auxiliary extension to prevent chip-out. Be sure to rout the ends before cutting the long edge. Center and clamp the top and base to the frame, keeping the back edges flush and the parts centered from side to side.
2 3
DON’T HAVE 1" STOCK? TRY THIS
2‹"
2"
A Face gluing three ‡"-thick pieces creates a 2‹"-thick blank for ripping the stiles.
B Bandsawing the 2‹"-thick blank leaves ¤" extra to remove for the final 1" thickness. Page 4 of 7
RABBET THE RAILS
MARK THE TOP RAIL ARCH
C
D
An auxiliary miter-gauge extension supports workpieces A fairing stick is a flexible piece of wood that can to prevent chip-out. be pulled into a curve to establish an arc.
FORM THE FRAME
ADD CORBELS, TOP AND BASE
E
F
Clamps keep the rabbeted joints both flat and square to form the frame.
Make two copies of the corbel 4 pattern on page 7 and spray-adhere them to your blanks, Drawing 4
keeping the straight lines on the pattern flush with the straight edges of your blanks. Bandsaw and sand both corbels to shape. After cutting glue kerfs in the corbels, glue and clamp the corbels in place with the back flush and the top edge tight under the top, as shown in Photo F.
5
Bar clamps provide a place to leverage smaller clamps for attaching the corbels.
Finish and add the mirror
Install the mirror and then the 4 back. Attach the fender washers with #6×fi" panhead wood screws
the rabbetted opening, and 1Measure have a mirror cut ¤" undersize. to secure the mirror. Cut the back (G) to fit the If you plan to hang the mirror, 2rabbetted opening. 5 use picture hangers and braided Finish-sand and stain the frame. wire as shown in . To 3 (We used Watco Danish Oil attach it atop a dresser, use the bar Finish in Dark Walnut.) Allow at stock where shown. ¿ Drawing 1
least three days for the oil to dry before sealing the finish with two coats of polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.
Produced by Marlen Kemmet Written by Bob Wilson with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine Graphic design: Lorna Johnson
Page 5 of 7
shop tip Kerfs control squeeze-out Glue kerfs keep squeeze-out off the face of the rails, top, base, and from around the corbels. Set the saw blade height to „" and the fence „" from the blade. Where the blade starts to touch the wood, make a pencil line on a piece of tape near the blade. Add another pencil mark ‹" in Cutting Diagram front of the cut line to serve as a stopping point for your cuts. Cut the first kerfs in the corbels and other pieces as instructed. After making all these cuts, move the fence to place the blade ¨" from the fence and make the second set of cuts to complete the kerfs, as shown at r i g h t .
‹"
Stop cutting here Blade contacts wood
Cutting Diagram A
C B
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
F
F
E
D
Materials List FINISHED SIZE
G
¤ x 24 x 48" Hardboard
The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design or the finished project to the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project.
Mission Mirror T W L Matl. Qty. A* stiles 1" 2" 21‹" LWO 2 B top rail ‡" 3" 31‡" QWO 1 C* lower rail ‡" 2fi" 31‡" QWO 1 D top ‡" 1fl" 41‹" QWO 1 E base ‡" 1fl" 36‹" QWO 1 F* corbels ‡" 2fi" 15" QWO 2 G back ¤" 17fi" 31‡" HB 1 * Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions. Materials Key: LWO—laminated white oak, QWO— quartersawn white oak, HG—hardboard. Supplies: 1" fender washers (6), #6×fi" panhead wood screws, picture hangers and 60 lb.(or greater) braided wire or ¤×1fi×4" steel bar stock (2), ¤×17›×31fl" mirror. Blades and bits: Chamfer router bit, 1" Forstner bit.
Page 6 of 7
s
To ensure full-size patterns are correct size, your printer should be set to print at 100% (not fit to page). Measure full-size patterns to verify size.
4 FULL-SIZE PATTERN
‹
fi
‡
1"
Join pattern here.
2fi" F
CORBEL FULL-SIZE PATTERN (2 needed)
F
15" Join pattern here.
Page 7 of 7
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