DENIM SEAM QUALITY DEFECTS

C O M M O N SE A M Q UA L I TY D E F E C TS

AMERICAN EFIRD, INC.

C O M M O N SE A M Q UA L I TY D E F E C TS SEAM UNQUALI TY PHOTO OR DRAWI NG

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AMERICAN EFIRD, INC. RECOMMENDED SOLUTI ONS

BROKEN STI TCHES - NEEDLE CUTTI NG - w here the thread is being MI NI MI ZI NG BROKEN STI TCHES DUE TO NEEDLE CUTTI NG broken w here one seam crosses another seam (ex: bartacks on- 1) Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core top of w aistband stitching, seatseam on top of riser seam) thread. 2) Use a larger diameter thread on operations resulting in stitch failure. denim, you normally w ould like to maintain a 60% / 40% relationship of Needle thread to Looper thread in the Seam. 4) Use needles w ith the correct needle point. 5)

Note: Using the proper thread and maintaining the proper stitch

BROKEN STITCHES - NEEDLE CUTTING

Thread Tension Too Tight

Proper Thread Tension

BROKEN STI TCHES - ABRASI ON - w here thread on the stitch lineMI NI MI ZI NG BROKEN STI TCHES DUE TO ABRASI ON - 1) is broken during stone-w ashing, sand blasting, hand sanding, Use etc. a higher performance Broken stitches must be repaired by restitching over the top of the stitch-line. Waistband); 3) Make sure stitches are balance properly, 4) Use a

Row of Stitch

Here the looper thread has been broken due to harsh abrasion during stone-washing.

BROKEN STI TCHES - ABRASI ON

Perma Core NWT

A&E's new Perma Core NWT was designed to today's more

BROKEN STI TCHES - CHEMI CAL DEGRADATON - w here thread isMI NI MI ZI NG BROKEN STI TCHES DUE TO CHEMI CAL being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering DEGRADATI ON - 1) Use a higher performance Perma Core resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure. NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation. 2) I t is recommended to go to larger thread sizes w hen the Denim Garments w ill be subject to Harsh Chemical Too much chemical w ashes. 3) To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the w ater temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of


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UNRAVELI NG SEAMS - generally occurs on 401 chainstitch seams MI NI MI ZI NG UNRAVELED STI TCHES - 1) Use a high w here either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has performance Perma Core or D-Core thread that w ill occurred. This w ill cause seam failure unless the seam is Rest it ched. Skipped Stitch

See A&E Technical Bulletins on our web-site on

UNRAVELI NG SEAMS

Broken Stitch that is unraveling

RESTI TCHED SEAMS - w here there is a "splice" on the stitch line. MI NI MI ZI NG RESTI TCHED SEAMS - 1) Use a better quality I f this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear sew to ing thread. This may include going to a higher be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by 1) thread breaks or thread performance thread designed to minimize sew ing run-out during sew ing; or 2) cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (I .e., stone w ashing).

"Machine Maintenance Checklist". 4) Observe sew ing operators for correct material handling techniques.

RESTI TCHED SEAMS

Excessive Restitched Seams SAGGI NG OR ROLLI NG POCKETS - w here the pocket does not lay MI NI MI ZI NG SAGGI NG OR ROLLI NG FRONT & BACK flat and rolls over after laundering. POCKETS - 1) Make sure the sew ing operators are not holding back excessively w hen setting the front pocket. 2)

Setting the front

AMERICAN EFIRD, INC.


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RECOMMENDED SOLUTI ONS

SKI PPED STI TCHES - w here the stitch forming device misses the MI NI MI ZI NG SKI PPED STI TCHES - 1) Use corespun thread. 2) Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch. 3) needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that helps to minimize

feeding.

EXCESSI VE SKI PPED STI TCHES

ExcessiveSkipped Stitches RAGGED / INCONSISTENT EDGE - w here the edge of the seam is SOLUTI ONS TO RAGGED / I NCONSI STENT EDGE - 1) Make either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch. sure the sew ing machine knives are sharpened and changed often; 2) The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite.

RAGGED / I NCONSI STENT EDGE ON OVEREDGE OR SAFETYSTI TCH SEAMS WAVY SEAMS ON STRETCH DENI M - w here the seam does not laySOLUTI ONS FOR WAVY SEAMS ON STRETCH GARMENTS flay and is w avy due to the fabric stretching as it w as sew n or1) Use minimum presser foot pressure; 2) I nstruct sewing during subsequent laundering and handling operations. operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they are making the seam. 3) Where available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of the fabric.


ROPY HEMS

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ROPY HEM - is w here hem is not laying flat and is skew ed in appearance.


SOLUTI ONS FOR ROPY HEMS - 1) Usually caused by poor operator handling. I nstruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in the folder before they start sew ing. Also, make sure the don't hold back excessively as the seam is being sew n. 2) Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure.

TWI STED LEGS - is w here the sideseam tw ists around to the front SOLUTI ONS FOR TW I STED LEGS - 1) Usually caused by of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans. poor operator handling. I nstruct the sewing operator to match the front and back properly so they come out the same length. Sometimes notches are used to insure proper

assembly operation. 3) Check fabric quality and cutting for

TWI STED LEGS

DI SAPPEARI NG STI TCHES I N STRETCH DENI M - is where the SOLUTI ONS TO MI NI MI ZI NG DI SAPPEARI NG STI TCHES thread looks much smaller on seams sew n in the w arp direction ON STRETCH DENI M - 1) Use a heavier thread size (T-120, than in the w eft direction of the fabric. T-135, T-150) on topstitching. 2) Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi). 3) Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sew n in the warp.


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THREAD DI SCOLORATI ON AFTER LAUNDRY - is where the thread SOLUTI ONS TO THREAD DI SCOLORATI ON - 1) Use thread pics up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a 'dirty' w ith proper color fastness characteristics. 2) Correct PH

Improper PH level

THREAD DI SCOLORATI ON AFTER LAUNDRY

POOR COLORFASTNESS AFTER LAUNDRY - is where the thread SOLUTI ONS TO POOR COLORFASTNESS AFTER LAUNDRY does not w ashdow n consistently in the garment or changes to1) a Use thread w ith proper color fastness characteristics. 2) different color altogether.

Mixing threads in a Garment

Notice how the bartack thread washed down diﬀerently than the Topstitching thread.

POOR COLOR FASTNESS AFTER LAUNDRY

operators select thread by type and color number and do not just pick a thread off the shelf because it looks close in color. Note: If preproduction testing shows a problem, then make sure to contact your global thread company for assistance.

DENIM SEAM QUALITY DEFECTS

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